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The challenges and beauty of off-season hiking on the SAT

Some days are beautiful and some days are brutal.

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The off-season on the Stockholm Archipelago Trail gets gradually more challenging as more and more services close for the winter. However, if you are well prepared it is also a fantastic time of the year as you will be more or less alone. Some days are beautiful and some days are brutal.

Below you will find the key factors.


The ferry timetables

In the Stockholm Archipelago autumn starts early. Not because of the weather but because of the ferry timetables. It becomes more challenging to get to the different sections of Stockholm Archipelago Trail from the 18th of August. The information below applies until December 13, 2025. After that the Winter timetable reigns until April 29, 2026 making it even more challenging. Use either the google travel planner on each section page on the website or use the App ”res i sthlm” (works in English).

Approximate dates for the different yearly ferry timetables:

  • Autumn timetable. ca 20 August – ca 15 December
  • Winter timetable. ca 15 December – the end of April
  • Spring timetable (similar to the Autumn timetable). The end of April – ca 20 June 
  • Summer timetable. ca 20 June – 20 August 

IF you have a monthly or yearly public transport card (SL) you travel for free on the ferries from September 14th, 2025 until April 29, 2026.


Water & open toilets

Most of the public water in the archipelago is not winterized. This means that most of this water is turned off in the end of October so as to not burst pipes when the temperature goes down below zero. ALL hand pumps work year round.

Flush toilets are also closed for the same reasons. Some of the dry toilets are still open.


Accommodation & food stores

The different accommodations close at various times along the autumn months with very few being open year-round. It all depends on the desires of the various owners. Some are open during the weekends, so make sure that you have a booking if you plan to stay in a hotel or similar. Do NOT leave it to chance. The campgrounds are open with the restriction on services (water & toilets) the later you get in the autumn.

The various food stores in the archipelago follow similar lines.

We will try to give an overview below.

NOTE: The later in the year it gets it might make more sense for you to be based on the mainland and do day trips if you do not want to camp. The later you go in the autumn the more hard-core the camping will get. Especially during the winter months it can be worth creating your own little hub in either Nynäshamn, Stockholm, Vaxholm or Norrtälje from where you can do day trips.

Make sure you bring enough food, water, clothes to be self-sufficient during the late autumn. The ferries all have cafeterias on-board and toilets.

If you need to use the forest then walk away from the trail, dig a hole, take your paper with you and cover up the hole.


AUTUMN 2025

18 August – 13 December 2025

Ferry departure point

Stockholm city (strömkajen) & Vaxholm – many food and accommodation options (Hotel, B&B and Campground). Good for day trips.

Waxholm ferry line 12 & 13 – Daily with more options Friday – Sunday

Grinda – Grinda Wärdshus is open until December 14, accommodation and food. Check with them before you go. Public water is closed off in October. Dry toilets are open year round – At the info center above the Southern ferry quay, by the beach southwest of Grinda Wärdshus and by the gas station west of Grinda Wärdshus. a defibrillator is found in the Wärdshus. Camping only in the designated campground just south of the Northern ferry quay.

Svartsö – Skärgårdshotellet is open year round. Check with them before you go. On the south east side of Skärgårdshotellet main building there is a toilet, water and a defibrillator which is open year-round, the middle door. The food store is open year-round. Opening hours are found here. Inside is a toilet which you can pay to use when the food store is open. There is a defibrillator by the entrance which is always accessible. No campground.

Ingmarsö – From mid-September the B&B is closed. By the Southern ferry quay the food store is open year-round. Opening hours are found here. There is water and a flush toilet at the guest harbor until the end of October. After that only a dry toilet. No campground in 2025.

The rowboats between Finnhamn and Ingmarsö are in place until the first week of November. They will be put back in the water, if the winter allows by mid- April. The exact dates will be communicated on the website under news.

Finnhamn – The hostel and restaurant is closed from early October. There are hand water pumps that are open year-round; in the cottage village. On the north-eastern shore of Paradisviken you can find dry toilets that are open year-round. Camping only in the designated campground South of the hostel.

Möja – Jeppes restaurant in Långvik is open most of the year. Opening hours (Wednesday – Sunday) are found here. The hostel closes mid-October. The food store in Berg is open year-round. Opening hours are found here. Toilet and water at Jeppes according to opening hours, for customers or at a fee. Toilet and water in the inner guest harbour between May & Mid-October. Defibrillators are found year-round at Jeppes, Ramsmora fishing harbour, Möjahallen, Löka guest harbour and Berg Kyrkviken guest harbour. No campground.

Ferry departure point

Åsättra brygga (Ljusterö) 

Waxholm ferry Line 10. Several times daily

Svartsö and Ingmarsö. See services above.

Ferry departure point

Furusund 

Furusund is accessible year round by public bus from Norrtälje (and of course by car). The same bus also goes to Yxlan with the car ferry from Furusund. Make sure you do NOT miss the bus back. Accommodation and food is available at Hotell Furusund – Friday to Sunday. No campground on Furusund. 

On Yxlan you can buy food and use the toilet (if you are a customer) at Köpmanholms Lanthandel Grill & Bar. Open daily. Opening hours here.

Ferry departure point

Räfsnäs – Accessible by bus from Norrtälje 

Daily to Lidö

Lidö – No service available.

Ferry departure point

Simpnäs – Accessible by bus from Norrtälje 

Several times daily to Arholma

Arholma – Bull August Hostel open year-round. Water and toilets available there for customers. The food store is open year round. See opening hours.

Ferry departure point

Stavsnäs vinterhamn – Some accommodation options nearby.

Waxholm ferry Line 16

Several times daily.

Sandhamn – The only year-round destination with Seglarhotellet open every day. The restaurants Seglarhotellet and Sandhamns Värdshus open-year round. Missionshuset (B&B) is also open. The food store is open year-round. See opening hours here. Toilet and water is open year-round on the south side of the gravel road in the red service building in the middle of the guest harbour. No camping.

Runmarö – The first island after Stavsnäs. The island closest to the mainland. The food store is open year-round. See opening hours here. The only drinking water available that is open year round is in the lakes on the island, filter or boil. The only dry toilet is just east of the access road to the guest harbour. See the step by step description here for the code. No camping.

Waxholm ferry Line 17

Several times daily with more departures Friday – Sunday

Nämdö

Toilet and water available by the library in Sand. The water in the lake is drinkable. Filter or boil. At the southeast end of Långvik you can find a water pump. The Sauna on the southeast side of Långvik is open until early November. You can camp next to it and also by Östanvik ferry quay.

NOTE: The restaurant at Idöborg is open on weekends and you can rent accommodation and cook yourself every day of the week. Idöborg is close to Nämdö and is on Ferry Line 17. Idöborg has their own boat and can transport you to and from the hikes on Runmarö and on Nämdö.

Ferry departure point

Dalarö – Some great food and few accommodation options.

Ornö hässelmara

Car ferry. Several times daily. See the timetable here.

The restaurant in Kyrkviken, Ornö krog is weekdays for lunch. The food store in the same building is also open daily. Opening hours here. You can use the toilet and access water there if you are a customer. Sundby B&B is open upon request. Ornö Skärgårdshotell is open upon request. The same applies here in regards to water and toilets. There is a dry toilet on the southwestern coast of Mörby where the ”yellow trail” starts. No campground on Ornö.

Waxholm ferry Line 19

Friday, Saturday & Sunday – Do NOT miss the return ferry on Sunday if you are on Fjärdlång.

Ornö Boda – The northern most point of SAT Ornö. The various services on Ornö are listed above.

Fjärdlång – No services available in 2025. Camping where you want in 2025, the island is empty.

Ferry departure point

Årsta brygga – Hostel nearby

Waxholm ferry line 21 – Several times daily.

Utö Gruvbryggan – Utö Värdshus is open every day in September. Weekends from October (Friday – Sunday). For accommodation and restaurant. Christmas tables are available from November 22 – December 14. Toilets and water available in the hotel during opening hours. Dry toilets are found above Barnens bad, North of the harbour. The service building in the harbour has a toilet and water when open. The food store is open year round. Every other day during this period (Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday). Opening hours 10-17. Defibrillator is found in the hotel reception. Camping in the campground just south of the guest harbour.

Ålö – Accessible via the gravel road that runs south from Utö – The Utö-Ålö connector. Water is available in the hand pumps at Ålö storsand and in the crossing just north of the ferry quay. Dry toilets in the same places. Camping is allowed at Ålö Storsand.

Ferry or bus departure point

Nynäshamn – Several accommodation options for day trips.

Waxholm ferry Line 29 – Ankarudden – Landsort – several times daily.

Bus to Ankarudden from Nynäshamn. Ferry to Landsort. The hostel is open year-round. Book online here. Toilet and water available for customers. Svedtiljas restaurant and hotel Lotstornet is open weekends until mid- December. The campground is just southeast of the Northern ferry harbour. There is an open toilet in the western harbour. No food store is open during this period.

Waxholm ferry Line 22

Wednesday – Sunday. Do NOT miss the Sunday return ferry.

Nåttarö – the first stop on this line. No services available except dry toilets at Nåttarö Storsand. The campground is just east of the ferry quay.

Rånö – No services available except a hand pump for water at the campground. About 1,5 km north of the ferry quay.

Ålö – as already described above. From Ålö you can hike the gravel road going North to Utö Gruvbryggan for service and the ferry to the mainland or to Spränga brygga where you can also get the ferry to the mainland (Årsta brygga).